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From:  see@my.sig (Grasshopper -- Don Buchan)
Newsgroups:  bit.listserv.candle-l
Subject:  Candlemaking FAQ
Organization:  Don's House of Fine Patisseries
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Date:  Thu, 19 Apr 2001 01:52:16 GMT
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1. How are dipped candles made?

Dipped candles are made by building the wax around the wick layer by
layer by repeatedly dipping the wick in molten wax and allowing the
wax
to cool in between each dipping. This can be done by using a wick that
is doubled over a spacer used to support the candles when dipping and
keep a certain spacing between them to avoid them sticking to each
other
during the dipping process. Use a container that is approximately two
to
four centimetres longer than the total length of the wicks you are
dipping.

A good way to keep your candles straight is to make the wicks longer
than you want the candles to be and attach metal nuts to the ends. Cut
the ends off when the weight of the candles is enough to keep them
straight. You should also dip the wicks in wax a few of times,
stretching them out and allowing them to cool fully after each
dipping.

Another way to have very straight candles is to build a wire rack out
of
coathanger wire that will fit into your dipping container, and secure
your wicks to it.
____________
| !----! |
| ! ! |
| ! ! |
| ! ! |
| ! ! |
| ! ! |
| ! ! |
|__!____!__|

The "|" and "_" are the wire rack while the "!" and "-" is your wick.

Ideal wax temperature for dipping is between 150F and 155F.

2. How are moulded candles made?

Moulded candles are made by pouring wax into a mould that either
already
has its wick weighted down and hanging from a stick, or the candle can
be made without the wick, which is later inserted by drilling a hole
through the centre of the moulded wax.

The moulds you use can be any container whose base is less wide than
the
mouth and whose shape does not impede the removal of the cooled
candle.
Moulds can be cups or glasses, holes in sand, various plastic,
acrylic,
glass, metal, rubber and clay moulds purchased at craft stores, jars,
and any container whose shape appeals to you, will withstand the heat
of
the molten wax, and will release the candle when it has cooled.

To facilitate the removal of the candles from the moulds, you should
use
either the silicone fluid available at craft stores (wipe on the whole
surface of the mould by putting in a little fluid, turning the
container
completely to cover all surfaces, and lightly wipe clean,) or some
vegetable oil used in the same manner (this may cause slight
discolouration.)

Ideal wax temperature for moulded candles depends on the kind of
mould,
as per the following table:

130F Ceramic moulds soaked in tansmission fluid
150F to 155F Sand candles sand off
160F to 180F Plastic and rubber moulds
160F to 200F Rubber moulds
165F Ceramic moulds soaked in water
170F to 200F Glass moulds
180F Ceramic moulds coated with heat resistant varnish
180F to 210F Acrylic, clay and metal moulds
270F to 280F Sand candles sand on
290F and higher Danger

3. How do I make dripless candles?

Overdip the candle with three or four layers of wax with a higher
melting
point than that of the wax used for the body of the candle.

4. How can I save on wax colouring?

Make your candles with white wax and then overdip in the coloured wax.
However, in order to have a strong enough colour you must compensate
for
this by using more colouring in the overdip wax.

5. How do I make floating candles?

Typically these will be moulded candles. They must be wider than they
are
tall in order not to topple over in the water. Beyond this they
require
no special treatment.

6. How do I use the beeswax sheets to make candles?

The basic method is to lay the sheet at the edge of straight, sharply
edged surface such as a counter with 3mm (1/8") of the sheet over the
edge. Using a hair dryer, gently heat this overlap and immediately
fold
it down. Then use this overlap to cradle your wick and crimp the wick
in
it. Carefully warm the sheet with the hairdryer as you roll the sheet
around the wick.

7. Where can I find wax?

Properly handled, wax may be melted and remelted indefinitely without
deteriorating; therefore you may use old candle stubs collected from
friends and family as your stock. Many craft and hobby stores that
cater
beyond the modelmaking/railroad/airplane crowd will carry parafin
blocks,
beeswax sheets, beeswax blocks and stearic acid crystals. You can also
look in the yellow pages for "wax"; the companies there may be willing
to
sell or give you their waste waxes or allow you to purchase in very
large
quantities. Oil refineries also may be sources of wax; it may be
possible
to acquire their wax laboratory wastes.

If you melt old candle stubs together without sorting by colour, you
will
typically end up with anywhere from deep scarlet red to dark chocolate
brown. This typically will also result in a wax with a relatively low
melting point unless you sort the wax by melting point. This is done
by
taking the wax temperature at the point that the surface is just
barely
starting to develop a solid wax scum.

You can sort the wax by colour and melt each seperately. Depending on
the amount of each colour of wax and how many different colours and
shades you want, you may also melt similarly coloured waxes together.

8. How do I make those pretty moulded candles with the different
coloured layers?

Pouring different colours after the wax has just formed a surface will
give a blended interface. Allowing the candle to cool more (but while
the wax is still warm) will give a more jagged (and less strong)
interface. In the latter case, using a hot nail to make some holes in
the
wax into which spikes will form will allow for the candle to be
stronger.

If you wish, you can let each colour cool on an angle.

The wick should be weighted in your mould and secured to the bottom of
the candle and kept vertical before proceeding, particularly if you
wish
to layer the wax on one or more angles. This can be done by securing
the
wick to the bottom layer of wax and using a stick across the mouth of
the
mould to keep the wick vertical.

9. How do I make container candles?

Choose a container which will not burn and proceed as though you are
making a moulded candle; however since you won't be taking it out you
aren't limited to containers which allow you to remove it nor do you
need
to use the silicone fluid or vegetable oil. You also should realize
that
the well created by the wax contracting as it cools will necessarily
form
on the top of the candle.

If you use clear glass, you can use different coloured waxes and even
let
each colour cool on an angle.

The wick should be weighted in your mould and secured to the bottom of
the candle and kept vertical before proceeding, particularly if you
wish
to layer the wax on one or more angles. This can be done by securing
the
wick to the bottom layer of wax and using a stick across the mouth of
the mould to keep the wick vertical. Alternatively, you can pour your
wax
into the container and drill a hole in the centre of the wax, then
insert
a wick that either has a metal core or which has been soaked in wax
and
allowed to cool.

10. How do I get that snowy effect that many Christmas candles have?

Melt your wax to just above the melting point and use an old egg
beater
to whip the cooling wax. While the wax is still warm but solidifying,
carefully put the beaten wax onto the surface of the candle. Any
beaten
wax that becomes difficult to use or which hardens too much should be
remelted and rebeaten.

11. How do I make the candles using the wax beads?

Fill any appropriate container with the beads. Place the wick in after
filling it or after just putting in a bit on the bottom and securing
it
in, then continuing to fill it with more. You can then burn the wick
directly without any further treatment. You can make various designs
with
different coloured beads by using a long thin stick to push down into
the
existing beads or carefully pour in the different colours while the
surface is on an angle.

12. What kinds of wicks can be used?

Ideally wicks should be braided as this allows the end of the wick to
curl over into the oxidation zone of the flame and burn away.
Otherwise the wick becomes too long and causes problems such as flames
that are too big and begin to smoke.

Braided wicks may be purchased from a craft store or you may make your
own by taking very fine cotton string and braiding three or more
strands
tightly to make an appropriately thick wick. This is difficult to do
properly and usually is not worthwhile.

Regular cotton butcher's string may also be used with good success but
may cause large flames and smoking if improperly trimmed.

You may use the wicks from the broken candles you melt if they are
long
enough to serve your purpose.

13. What size wick should be used for my candle?

***

14. Ideal temperatures

Wax should be used at these temperatures:

150F to 155F Sand candles sand off and dipped candles
160F to 180F Plastic and rubber moulds
160F to 200F Rubber moulds
170F to 200F Glass moulds
180F to 210F Acrylic, clay and metal moulds
270F to 280F Sand candles sand on
290F and higher Danger

A candy thermometer or a thermomether with the ranges marked off for
candlemaking (which may be purchased at craft stores) should be used
to
monitor the temperature of your molten wax. When the temperature has
reached just below the upper limit, remove the wax from the heat
source.

15. How do I make the scented candles?

A) Add a scent from your craft store or any oil based perfume (up to
3%
by volume) to the molten wax.
B) Occasionally add a drop of the scent into the molten wax as it's
burning in order to save on the scent.
C) Bore a hole in a moulded candle, pour in either liquid or solid
scents, and seal the top. Burning of the candle will maintain both the
seal and the slow release of the scent into the molten wax on the
surface
as you burn the candle.
D) Add small amounts of ground spices to the molten wax.

16. How do I make wax containers?

A) Fill a mould with wax, allow the wax to cool a bit, and remove the
solid wax formed on the top and pour out the molten wax.
B) Dip a water-filled balloon several times in wax.
C) Pour wax on a cookie sheet to a depth of 5 mm and allow to harden.
Cut
into squares and slightly melt the ends so as to make a box of however
many sides as desired.

17. How do I paint candles with wax?

Mix one part turpentine to four parts molten bees wax, and begin
painting. Alternately, mix 3 1/2 parts turpentine and 1 part parafin,
and
evaporate the turpentine over a period of a few days until you have a
paste.

18. How do I know I've used enough colour from the colour tabs?

Drip a little molten wax into some water. This will show you how
strong
the colour is in the hardened wax. Note that molten wax will generally
have a deeper shade of the colour than the solid wax.

Unless you have more white wax and are willing/able to recycle the
extra
wax, you should always add the colour a little bit at a time so as to
avoid colouring the wax too intensely.

19. Can I use dried fruit and nuts in the wax for moulded candles?

Since they may burn and act as wicks, creating very large flames once
ignited, it is advisable that you create sheets of wax and fruit on a
cookie sheet and cut out various shapes as per your desires. You can
use
these as walls for another moulded candle or as a wax container for
another candle.

***************
Troubleshooting
***************

1. Why does my candle keep going out?

A) Move the candle somewhere where there isn't a draught.
B) Avoid using crayons and lipstick to colour your wax as the dyes
tend
to clog the wick, preventing molten wax from being drawn up the wick.
If
you must, use the coloured wax as an overlayer only (ie. make the body
of
the candle white and dip the candle in the coloured wax.)
C) Your wick is too thin for the size of your candle. If the candle
allows it, use a drill to carefully drill the old wick out and push a
primed wick through the new drillhole.
D) Use wax with a lower melting temperature, or blend the wax you wish
to
use with a wax with a lower melting temperature.

2. How do you take care of the well in cooled moulded candles?

A) Make the candle upside down, secure the wick through a hole in the
bottom of the container and on the top, and when cool fill the well
B) Fill the mould higher than the intended height of the candle and
trim
off the wax forming the well.
C) Make chunks of wax by pouring wax onto a cookie sheet, letting it
cool, then slicing it into cubes. Put the cubes into your well and
fill
the crevices with molten wax and allow to cool; trim.

3. How do I keep milk cartons from bulging when I pour hot wax in it?

Wrap tape around the carton 3 centimetres from the top and the bottom
as
well as in the centre.

4. How do I keep the wick straight in a moulded candle?

Put a weight, such as a metal nut, on the end of your wick and tie the
other end to a stick. Rest the pencil on top of your mould such that
the
wick is centred, and allow the wax to completely cool. Alternatively,
pour the wax into the mould, allow to cool, drill a hole in the candle
and insert a wick.

5. How do I get a polished look on my candles? How do I remove
scratches?

Use nylon stockings to buff candles on the affected wax surfaces. For
really deep scratches and blemishes, you can overdip the candle or
decorate the affected area with wax or other decorations.